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Order 2160(E)

Published:

S.O. 2160(E). - In exercise of the powers conferred by sub-section (1) 3 of the Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985 (22 of 1985, and in supersession of the order of the Government of India, in the Ministry of Textiles, number S.O. 557(E), dated the 26th July, 1996, except as respects things done or omitted to be done before such supersession, the Central Government, being satisfied, after considering the recommendations made to it by the Advisory Committee that it is necessary so to do for the protection and development of the handloom industry, hereby directs that the article or class of articles specified in column (2) of the Table below, shall with immediate effect, be reserved for exclusive production by handlooms upto the range specified in column (3), namely:-

SI. No. Article of class of articles Rang reserved for exclusive production by handlooms
(1) (2) (3)
1. Saree

A Saree is a fabric made out of hundred percent. Cotton yarn or hundred percent, silk yarn or in any combination thereof and includes a saree made in blends or union with up-to forty-five percent, by weight of man-made fibres or yarn in combination with cotton yarn or silk yarn and is characterised by one or more of the following.-

  1. has extra warp and/or extra weft design in the border and/or heading and/or body, including buttas containing any yarn including metallic or metallised yarn or zari or any combination of thereof;
  2. has a solid woven border;
  3. has tie and dyed yarn warp -wise and/or weft-wise,

but does not include-

  1. Crepe, chiffon, chinon, georgettes and cotton voile saree;
  2. grey or bleached silk saree having a border in extra warp design.
2. Dhoti Dhoti is a fabric made out of hundred percent,cotton yarn or hundred percent silk yarn or in any combinationthereof and includes a dhoti made in blends, or union with uptoforty-five percent by weight of man-made fibres or yarn incombination with cotton yarn or silk yarn which has an extra wardesign of more than 14 mm width including selvedge in the border,and/or extra weft heading of more than 14mm width.3
3. (a) Towel and Gamcha

A towel is a fabric woven in plain, mat, twill,honey-comb, huckaback or a combination of these weaves withborder and heading and includes.- (A) a towel-

  1. made of cotton orblends of cotton with any other fibre;
  2. made in differentdimensions;
  3. which may bewhite or coloured;
  4. which may containdecorative design when produced on jacquard; and
  5. with mat weave,commonly known as Erazha Thorthu in Kerala and Erazha Thundu inTamil Nadu;

(B) Gamcha
  (b) Angavastram

Angavastram is a grey or bleached cloth of plainweave with border with extra warp in the borders and includesAngavastram-

  1. manufactured fromany natural fibre including silk (except) spun silk) or man-madefibre or any combination thereof;
  2. which containswhite or coloured yarn or metallic or metallised yarn or zari orany combination thereof, in its border or headings;
  3. which has awidth ranging from 70 cms. to 100 cms. Including selvedges; and
  4. which has lengthvarying from 1.50 meters to 3.00 meters;
4. Lungi Lungi is fabric made out of cotton yarn or artsilk yarn or in any combination thereof, having a width of 1.10cms, or above and 64 ends or above per inch and woven in checkand/or stripe design using coloured yarn to form check and/orstripe pattern.
5. Khes, Bedsheet, Bedcover, Counterpane, Furnishing(including tapestry, upholstery) Khes, bedsheet, bedcover, counterpane andfurnishings (including tapestry, upholstery), by whatever namethey may be called in different parts of the country, andincludes a double cloth made out of cotton yarn and/or art silkyarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or any yarn in combination thereof,which is woven with design pattern and/or a repeat of design upto200 ends, irrespective of count and dimensions, but does notinclude a plain sheeting woven only in plain, twill, satin orsateen weaves.
6. Jamakkalam Durry or Durret Jamakkalam Durry or Durret made out of cottonyarn or art silk yarn or wool yarn or jute yarn or in anycombination thereof, using in the case of cotton yarn or in anycombination thereof, using in the case of cotton yarn, coarsecount of single yarn of upto 20sor folded/plies of resultantcount upto 10s, or other equivalent count and in the case of artsilk yarn or wool yarn or jute yarn, upto 26 ends per inch, wovenwith plain weave or twill weave or in combination thereof, in anydimension.Explanation. - The count of cotton yarn upto 10sisequivalent to the count of worsted yarn upto 15sor wollen yarnupto 32.8sor count of art silk yarn not less than 530ddenieror count of jute yarn upto 1.7 lbs.
7. Dress Material Dress Material including Mashru cloth made out ofcotton yarn and /or silk yarn (including spun silk) and/or artsilk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn or in any combination thereof,woven with extra weft design in the border and/or bodyirrespective of count and dimensions and includes Telia Rumal andReal Madras Handkerchief.
8. Barrack Blankets and Kambal or Kamblies
  1. Barrack blanket means a thick fabric made ofwool about 34 microns and above, with fibrous surface, producedby milling and raising and includes barrack yarn from naturalgrey or black wool or combination thereof, and produced in anysize or weave.
  2. Kambal or kamblies means a thick fabricmade of wool of about 34 microns and above, with fibrous surface,produced by milling and raising and includes kambal or mill-spunworsted yarn, woolen yarn or combination thereof, in plain,stripe or check design.

Explanation.- For the purpose of this order,items (a) and (b) shall not include barrack blanket, kambal orkamblies made by using hand-spun or maill-spun worsted yarn,woollen yarn or combination thereof, in plain, stripe or checkdesign.
9. Shawl, Loi, Muffler, Pankhi etc.

Shawl is a piece of cloth woven form worsted yarnor woolen yarn or Pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarnand/or any combination thereof, which is used for covering bodyor worn over the shoulders without being put to any tailoringprocess and includes.-

(A) a shawl-

  1. which is woven with extra weft design, using woollen yarn orworsted yarn or pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarnand/or any combination thereof or in blends with other fiberswhich may be natural and/orcotton yarn and/or pashmina yarn orpure silk yarn or cotton yarn and/or any combination thereof;
  2. which is woven using any type of woolen yarn,worsted yarn or pashmina yarn or pure silk yarn or cotton yarnand/or any combination thereof;
  3. which is woven with any count of yarn; and
  4. which is woven in any length, width and weight;

(B) Loi, pankhi, mufflers, traditional shawlslike kullu, kinnauri, khani, pashmina, dhori, lirancha (Tibetan),gajari or any shawl, by whatever name called, in the northeastern region.

Explanation. - for the purpose of this order,item (A) and (B) does not include article made from cashmelonyarn.
10. Woollen Tweed

Woollen tweed is a piece is a piece of fabricwoven by hundred percent pure woollen yarn for making coats,jackets and dress materials and is-

  1. produced in check orstripe design irrespective of dimensions; and
  2. produced in3/1 twill weave
11. Chaddar, Mekhala or Phanek

Chaddar, Mekhala or Phanek is used for coveringlower and/or upper part of the body and is manufactured fromcotton yarn or sik yarn or art silk yarn or art silk yarn ortwill weave with check or stripe design irrespective of count anddimensions with extra warp and/or extra weft design andincludes.-

  1. Puan of Mizoram;
  2. Dhara, Jainsem, Dakmanda, Daksari ofMeghalaya;
  3. Skirts and Odhana fabrics of Nagaland andArunachal Pradesh;
  4. Riha and Pachara of Tripura;
  5. Pawade (set) or Dhawani of Andhra Pradesh,Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry; and
  6. Dakhona, Danka, Khamlet, Phanek of Assam;

Explanation. - For the purpose of this order, -

  1. "Chiffon" means a lightweight, open-mesh fabric, made from hard twisted silk filament yarn in plain weave;
  2. "Butta" means extra warp and/or extra weft spots design effect in the body of a saree or dress material;
  3. "Pawade" means an ankle-length gathered skirt often in two-piece often used with sari or dupatta;
  4. "Odhani" means an oblong cloth of about 6 to 7 ft. long and 3 to 4 ft. wide, with overall embroidery or woven jacquard weave with traditional design like himroo shawl or made up of a fabric decorated with cotton yarn or silk yarn or zari or any other fibre and used to cover the body;
  5. "Chinon" means a cotton or cotton blended compact plain or twill fabric mainly used as summer wear'
  6. "Upholstery" means intricately designed jacquard fabric used for upholstering and furnishings;
  7. "Mashru" means a mixed fabric made from cotton yarn and silk yarn and/or tie and dyed yarn;
  8. "Mekhala" means a piece of cloth with ends sewn together which is used by women as dress or petticoat, in Assam
  9. "Riha" means a cloth worn by women on the upper part of the body;
  10. "Dhawani" means a saree like fabric of about 4 to 5 yards in length used by girls;
  11. "Puan" means a cloth used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body, manufactured from cotton yarn or silk yarn or art silk yarn or in combination thereof, woven in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design and used commonly in Mizoram;
  12. "Dhara" means a cloth used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body manufactured from cotton or silk or combination thereof, in plain or twill weave with check or stripe design, used commonly in Meghalaya and also commonly known as "Jainsem" or "Daksari" or "Dakmanda"
  13. "Loi" means a cloth woven from worsted or woollen or cash-melon or pashmina or any other fibre and/or blends thereof, which are used for covering the body; and also called as "Pankhi" or "Muffler" or "Shawl" in varying dimensions;
  14. " Dhakona" means varieties used for covering lower and/or upper part of the body manufactured form cotton or silk or combination thereof, in plain or twill weave with check and stripe designs and commonly used in Assam.
    Date posted: 1 June 2024 Last modified: 1 June 2024